Category Archives: Climbing

Gym to Crag

Tomorrow’s post will be all about food, so I thought I’d take today to talk about moving from the gym to climbing outdoors.

Inside we have nice bright colored holds marked with colorful tape. Outside, holds on the crag are the same color as smooth rock. So what are the best ways to get use to climbing outside?

The largest adjustment is that no hold will ever feel comfortable. No hold is bolted into the wall and properly positioned for you to hold. So take your time, feel around for the best positioning. Don’t move up until you feel comfortable and happy with your new position. Once you do move up, you might feel a bit weary, it’s okay to move back down the crag to a more comfortable position while you think.

Rain damage can smooth rocks or roughen them by creating little divots. When smoothed rock is impending, try to place your hands on a small lip. If you can do this, you can balance your weight on your index, middle, and ring finger like you would a sloper. Water damage divots, while the can be painful, can also leave you with slightly more friction in your fingers. Extra friction means you will feel more comfortable in your hold. try to place your fingers (and thumb depending on the shape of the rock) in the divots. This works for small fingers better than large (sorry!).

My last tip for moving outdoors is to think about what type of hold a piece of rock you are trying to grab is. I usually look for jugs outside, but those aren’t the types of holds that I use in the gym. I find it easier to branch out and try new holds if I think about a position on a rock as a sloper, pinch, crimp, or pocket. There are the occasional jugs or ledges where the hold is clear. However, as you increase in difficulty level, you must find slopers, pinches, crimps, and pockets to move forward. Thinking about the type of hold will help you realize that formations in the rocks can be usable.

Take your time as you adjust to crags. I hope these tips will be helpful in finding holds and moving from the gym to the great outdoors.

Where’s your favorite place to climb outdoors?

Happy Birthday to Me!!!

Today has been great so far! I absolutely love birthdays! Don’t you?

So, updates on happenings this weekend….Saturday we climbed in the gym (sorry for the blur of these pictures, I wasn’t the one using my camera 🙂 )

And ate Mexican food that night.

Sunday we got up early and climbed outside the whole day!

(J looks enthusiastic -not- as I clean my route!)

I love this picture from above as I go up to clean.

These are just a few pictures from the weekend as I’m about to write a post on climbing tips! Stay tuned!

What’s your favorite way to celebrate your birthday?

Birthday Weekend

This weekend was a lot of fun and kept me away from any blogging updates! Sorry!!!

On Saturday I celebrated my birthday with friends and family by climbing and then eating at my favorite Mexican restaurant.

Many updates soon tomorrow, I promise!!! My juice yesterday was carrot and blueberry again!

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Reused picture because I didn’t take a picture.

And today, I tried a juice I bought at the grocery store because I spent all day CLIMBING OUTSIDE! More pictures and tips coming soon. Here’s the juice I bought though

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Overall, not so bad. I really like my fresh squeezed juice the best though!

As promised, look for a huge post tomorrow as I celebrate my birthday and recap the weekend!!!

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Is there a store bought brand of juice you enjoy?

Sportin’ Doylies

Memorial day means SUMMER!!! To begin the summer in style, J and I went climbing outdoors today. There’s no better way to spend a hot 93 degree May day then climbing rock under shade trees next to a river.

The first lead of the day today was called “Sportin’ Doylies”, hence the name of the post. A nice and easy warm up, it was full of handholds and little foot placements. It never ceases to amaze me how quickly an easy climb can be made into a hard one when using the wrong holds.

Maybe it was the fact that I haven’t been climbing outside in a month, maybe it was the soymisto for breakfast, or maybe it was the fact it’s Memorial day weekend, but the smell of the rock and the feel of the wind on the water was amazing! Days like today make me never want to stop climbing. There’s something empowering about climbing a rock, especially as a small female.

After four hours of leading and top roping, I started up “Thomas the Train”. Thomas is only a 5.6, but is severely changed by water damage and requires using places with slightly less water damage as hand and foot holds in multiple places at my height. After a day of climbing in the sun, empty water bottle, and a falling helmet due to my pony tail falling out I decided to stop….just two moves away from being finished. It’s always difficult to stop when you’re so close, but I knew if I pushed on any further I was likely to fall and that’s not how I wanted to end the day.

To top the day off, I finished it with J taking me out to eat sushi! Doesn’t it look beautiful? I loved the umbrella on the boat, I guess our sushi was suppose to be tropical!

How do you decide when it’s best to stop leading outdoors?